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Saugatuck's Famous Dance Hall the Big Pavilion - The Brightest Spot on the Great Lakes

2019.35.98

Books

Slusar, Vern

Big Pavilion (Saugatuck, Mich.)Saugatuck (Mich.) -- History.Michigan -- Saugatuck.Big PavilionDance HallSaugatuck History

Lane, Kit 1939-2024

Saugatuck-Douglas Historical Society 1986-2017

Douglas

Michigan

United States of America

North America

2009

977.401 LAN

two copies

Library

Good

Lane, Kit 1939-2024

Saugatuck's BIG PAVILION 'The Brightest Spot on the Great Lakes' By Kit Lane ACKNOWLEDGMENTS To the following for use of pictures: Whipple Collection, loaned by Dee Smith -- p. 4.; Fred Heinze, Jr. Collection p. 11; Mr. and Mrs. Jerry Srahlik p. 14, 18.; Jack E. Wilson -- p. 15, 18;. By Bill Simmons, loaned by Ruth Simmons -- p.18; Mr. and Mrs. Tom Crum p. 19; By Fred Stearns, loaned by Viola Fox -- p. 2. Also to the many who shared reminiscences, including: Mrs. Carl Bird, Henry Dorn , Jack Repp, Bill Giller, Jack E. Wilson John Clemens Mr. and Mrs. Jerry Srahlik Celia (House) Allen Viola Fox A map drawn by artist Fred Stearns about 1930. The Big Pavilion dominates the riverfront. Mt. Baldhead looms behind it. The buildings of the Ox-Bow Summer School of Painting are visible near the lighthouse in the background. Cover: An early picture of the Big Pavilion with a Holland and Saugatuck interurban car stopped on the tracks nearby. The line was in operation from 1899 to 1927 when it was abandoned as unprofitable. Published by THE COMMERCIAL RECORD Saugatuck. Michigan 49453 1977 An architect's drawing of the Big Pavilion. Some alterations in plans were made during construction. In the year 1909 western Michigan fruit industry was still reeling from the big freeze of 1906, Saugatuck Township had just voted itself dry, and there was an increasing realization that the growing crowds of summer vacationers would increase faster if the businessmen of the area could create in Saugatuck something to mare the town an extra special stop on the resort circuit. Their answer was to build down by the Kalamazoo River a pavilion of such size and grandeur that people would speak of it with awe far and wide and for many years following its demise. The first rumblings of the project were heard in 1905 when the Commercial Record. the Saugatuck weekly newspaper. headlined. "Saugatuck Has Secured Big Prize. " Mr. Limouze of the North Shore Pavilion Co. and Mr. H. H. Engle of South Haven purchased Monday the dock property owned by Roger E. Reed and Alfred S. Taylor. "The property is one of the choicest locations in Saugatuck and is in the heart of the village. The property consists of one square block having a front- age of over 300 feet and a depth of over 20 feet of water. It is now the landing of the JOOn A. Aliber. The property is now occupied by Mr. Reed as a coal yard and also the waiting room of the terminal electric road. "A new pavilion will be erected on the site by the first day of May. next, and will be put up on a much grander scale than the one now built in South Haven. :' The North Shore Pavilion at South Haven was constructed in 1904 on the banks of Lake Michigan by Limouze and others. It burned in 1914 and was re- placed by a similar building which burned in 1967. The site selected for the Saugatuck pavilion was along the Kalamazoo River just south of the newly re built Leindecker's Inn (the basic structure now houses the Coral Gables Restaurant complex) and just north of the Butler Hotel which had been built in 1696 as a grist mill. but was converted into a hotel and restaurant in 1901 by former Lakes Captain W. G. Phelps. The pavilion backers had hoped to be open by May of 1906 but business conditions that had delayed by almost two years the completion of Leindecker's seem to have struck the pavilion project also. READY TO BEGIN By March,1909, they were ready for the big announcement in the local newspaper: 'In an interview with Mr. Fredrick Limouze of California he tells of the immense pavilion he and his associates are about to commence on the dock property just south of Leindecker's Inn. "The plans are at D. F. Ludwig's Real Estate office and show all the details of the proposed building which will be 200 feet long by 105 feet wide and cost about $25,000. The main entrance will face the north and will have a vestibule 38 x 16 feet. The dancing floor will be 110 x 60 making 66, 000 square feet of space and there will be no posts in the building as the room will be supported with steel arches 68 feet high from the floor. All around the dance floor there will be a promenade 25 feet wide and different concessions will each have its place conveniently located for the accommodation of the public. 'lce cream and iced drinks will be served in a room 40 x 30 in the southeast corner of the building which will be profusely decorated with California palms and embellished with electric light<;. Cigar and souvenir stands will also be featured and checkrooms and toilet ,ooms for the use of the guests will be convenient and commodious. "Electric lights will form an important feature in beautifying and enlivening the building and from the fact that 1500 lights will be used, one will see that this essential feature has not been overlooked. The power will be generated by two gasoline engines which will be operated on the premises. "Mr. Limouze has had men at work laying out the ground and locating the corners for the building. The Aliber brought the pile driver from South Haven yester- day to commence work soon, as it is planned to put piles deep in the earth on which to rest the cement piers which will be 6 feet square at the bottom. "The Saugatuck Amusement Co. which has this enterprise in charge. has been incorporated under the laws of the state. with capital stock of $50.000. H. H. Engle of South Haven is president, and David Reed of the same place vice president. D. F. Ludwig of this place is secretary and Elmer E. Weed of Douglas treasurer. The directors are, besides the above. Fredrick Limouze and Robert Moor, Some of the stock is held by Chicago parties but there is still some stock for sale, Messrs. Ludwig and Weed having charge of that part of the business. 'Deac' Weed’ Elmer Weed of Douglas, usually called "Deac" Weed, was part owner, and son of the founder. of the Douglas basket factory, one of the largest fruit container factories in the state. D. F. Ludwig was a former sea captain from South Haven who moved to Saugatuck in 1905 and went into the real estate business while maintaining some financial interest in ships in the area. In 1913 he moved to Port Arthur, Texas, with his teenage son Daniel Keith Ludwig, and went into shipbuilding. The father was moderately successful; the son went on to found a shipbuilding business that in 1976 made him the richest man in the world. according to some record books. There is a story told by old timers that young Keith actually got his first start in business as a youngster selling popcorn and shining shoes outside his father's pavilion in Saugatuck. Engle and Reed were South Haven businessmen and later were the impetus behind a similar pavilion called the Avery Beach Casino, which was constructed in South Haven in 1912. The Casino was strikingly similar to the Saugatuck Pavilion. It was designed by the same firm of Kalamazoo architects and built by many of the same construction workers. The building had a moderately successful life and burned in 1937. Fredrick Limouze "of California" was a promoter who came to the mid-west and invested in several such pavilions. He had some financial interest in the North Shore Pavilion built in South Haven in 1.904 and The Avery Beach Casino built in South Haven in 1912. The structures were similar on the outside but The Casino was built on the beach and the lower floor contained a full beach house and steam bath. (Caption under picture.) was an important backer for a pavilion built in Chicago at Evanston and Montrose Street in 1910. The Chicago Pavilion was not successful as a dance hall and was converted into a vaudeville house after one year of operation. Following the announcement work was begun quickly on the Saugatuck structure. In April piles were driven for the dock and a storehouse built to the rear of the proposed structure to house tools and materials. On April 29, 1909, two large barges of the Heinz Lumber Co. fleet, the Seldene Marvin and the Del"" brought in 340,000 board feet of lumber. They were unloaded at the new docks as Henry Gleason and Sons rapidly finished the concrete work, aided by a new gasoline concrete mixer, one of the first in the area. The huge arches were constructed on the rough floor and hoisted into position and bolted, siding applied, and the entire building painted a barn red. The aim was for a Fourth of July opening. According to the June 24, 1909, Holland City News: "Work on the Big Pavilion at Saugatuck has been pushed rapidly ever since it was started and men are now working overtime as long as they can still see, about 75 men being now employed, the pay roll being $1, 000 a week. The concrete work for the electric light house, near the main structure, is being put in this week. EAST SHORE PAVILION Meanwhile, just down the river from the building site of the Saugatuck Amusement Company's Pavilion. the East Shore Pavilion, which had been announced in March, was nearing completion. The building which was located on the bank> of the Kalamazoo just south of the ferry landing. planned a large dance floor. with soda fountain and candy concession. It was the first real dance hall in Saugatuck, although dances had previously been held in Upham's Opera House and at the grist mill while they were waiting for shipment of the machinery, The opening of the East Shore Pavilion. To a “crowd of 75”, was announced May 28 in the same paper which carried the first published drawing of the Saugatuck Amusement Co. Pavilion and bragged: A 1912 view showing the Pavilion (far right) and the Skating Rink, formerly the East Shore Pavilion (left center). (Caption under picture) “The above is a picture of the largest dancing pavilion in the state as it will appear when completed and besides being the largest in the state one would have to travel to California to see another in the whole country its size. It is not to be wondered at, that when the plan was proposed, many could not realize the magnitude of the undertaking but when the huge arches, which stand 85 feet high, began to be raised, no one in Saugatuck could deny that we were to have an enormous building here and one which would advertise the town more than any other one thing. " Construction ran down to the wire. The building was to open during a big Independence Day celebration July 3, 4 and 5. On July 2 the newspaper reports: "Men are rushing work on the big pavilion, putting on the finishing touches which makes it a place of beauty. Many elegant palms are being distributed around the structure in convenient places and the smoke stack on the electric power house plant was put up yesterday. DAZZLING SPLENDOR After the celebration the Commercial Record de- scribed it: "The Independence Day celebration which was held here Saturday was a success from start to finish... Both dancing pavilions were open and did a good business. The big pavilion of the Saugatuck Amusement Co. was opened on this day and in the evening 5000 colored incandescent lights in its high arches made a scene of dazzling splendor which cannot be described in words and has to be seen to be appreciated. The red, white, blue. green and amber lights were switched on and off as the occasion demanded and the dreamy waltzes and lively two steps were affected as much by the lights as the music which was furnished by a ten piece orchestra and was the best that could be procured. Fredrick Limouze himself, resplendent in a white suit to match the formal dress of the 10-piece band from Chicago, was in charge of the dance floor. Throughout July and August he planned a series of special parties including a Japanese party with prizes for the best costume. a Teddy Roosevelt and U. S. Marine affair with a grand march "each person was given a paper hat appropriate for the occasion" and a Happy Hooligan dance with "elaborate decorations appropriate for a barn dance. " Professor Nadel gave dancing lessons Tuesday and Friday mornings for adults and Wednesday mornings for children. Persons who bought more than $25 worth of dance tickets were eligible for special drawings. INTERURBAN ADDS CARS By August 20 the Commercial Record headlined, "Crowds are Great!" and added: "The crowds continue to increase at the big pa- vilion and special cars bring large numbers from Holland and the Black Lake resorts nearly every evening especially on nights when special features are present- ed. Last week Wednesday there were 1800 paid ad- missions and this week Wednesday fully as many. " In mid-July the East Shore pavilion announced a change in nightly programs, converting the dance floor into a roller skating rink. It was always afterwards referred to as the Skating Rink. The Pavilion closed Labor Day after a successful- sounding season but the September 17, 1909, Commer- cial Record carried an ominous announcement: ''In order to protect the creditors of the Saugatuck Amusement Co. the property of that concern has been transferred to George E. Kollen of Holland who will act as trustee. "This action was decided upon by a majority of the creditors who are protected by liens, and the deeds were accordingly filed with the register of deeds of Allegan. . . . .A meeting of the creditors will be held in Holland Tuesday to make some decision as to their action in the matter. If the creditors are willing the company may be reorganized and the stockholders be given a chance to get some return for their investment, but if not the property will be sold to the highest bidder. "The company made money this past season but as they had so little cash to start on, the bills could not be paid off when due. " The case dragged on until February of 1910 when the Commercial Record reported: "The entanglement from which the Saugatuck Amusement Co. is still unable to extricate itself is still far from being settled. There is a mortgage of $2.500 on the property to start with. There are $18. 000 other secured claims for building material and such things besides $5, 000 unsecured claims making a total of $25, 000 or thereabouts against the property. "The company is attempting to settle the unsecured claims for 20 per cent and they claim that even the secured creditors are settling for 60 per cent. 'It has been reported in many papers of the surrounding country that the pavilion was a failure but we wish to correct this statement. In the first place the venture was begun with practically nothing and if anyone expected that the concern would make enough to pay for the building in the first year then it is a failure, but that is more than should be expected. Taking the judgement of those who have had an opportunity to see the crowds which attended the pavilion we are safe in saying that the concern paid a big profit on the money invested. TRACED IN LIGHTS The building opened on schedule in July of 1910: "The Big Pavilion was opened on Saturday night for the first time and this beautiful building was made more attractive by its thousands of lights and music by a ten piece orchestra. Large crowds sought pleasure there both afternoon and evening and found it. " The editor's fascination with the lights was wide- spread. The building had more than 5000 lights on the outside, which outlined the arches and towers and some of the windows every evening. Inside the high arches were lined with multi-colored lights which were run from a control panel in a small room off the dance floor. The various colors were used to create special effects, yellow for fast dances, blue for slow, and red. white and blue for patriotic songs. "The manager used to tell us to go in there and be creative, " a worker recalls. There were separate levers for each color, and controls for the standing lights, and the bandstand lights which framed the bandstand in their rose petaled sockets. When the lights in the arches near the ceiling of the dance floor needed replacement, a scaffolding about 16 feet high with big iron wheels would be maneuvered into position near the wall at the base of the arch and the daring electrician, or more often a young boy hired for the job, would climb up the framework of the arch, lie belly down and reach around and screw in the bulbs. Since colored light bulbs were not yet being manufactured when the Pavilion was first built in 1909, the building had a special room for coloring bulbs. The room, in the south end, had one wall which was al- most entirely covered with sockets. In the earliest days the bulbs were colored by dipping, later a spray color was used. When colored bulbs began being manufactured commercially the local coloring operation was abandoned. The bulbs outside were also colored to begin with but were gradually replaced with all white bulbs. The Pavilion had a small building with an enor- mous smokestack to the south to house the engine and dynamo which produced electricity for the operation. The Pavillon llghts pre-dated by at least two years the general introduction of electricity to the Saugatuck area and were the first electric lights many residents had ever seen. DANCE TICKETS The original plan was for free admission to the Pavilion except for special parties, and payment for each dance number; the fee was 8 cents a dance, or a beau bent on impressing his date might buy 7 tickets for 50 cents. However, in 1910 it was decided to charge admission every evening for "it was found that many would attend when nothing was charged and occupy the seats leaving no room for dancers when they wished to rest" The large dance floor had a railing all around it with a promenade lined with seats. There were four entrances and those wishing to dance were admitted to the floor through a velvet-roped entry way on the presentation of a ticket. Tickets were available from two high ticket booths near the edge of the dance floor. In the floor in front of the bandstand there were a series of painted numbers that were used to give away prizes at special dances. When the music stopped. the dancers. and later the skaters. would rush to stand on a number. "The band would get tricky." a patron remembers. "One time they might play on and on until everyone was getting tired. and then the next time they might play only two or three notes before stopping. " When business was really good they would have to have elimination heats, like musical chairs. The first time the band would stop playing and everyone would rush for a number, those who could not find an unoccupied number Ieft the floor. and the band would play another round before drawing the winning number. Unattached males and females were encouraged to attend but dance hall friendships were kept firmly in hand by a master of ceremonies, in the earliest days Fredrick Limouze. later Deac Weed served for many years. 'If you were a single man attending the dance and you wanted to meet an unescorted girl. you asked the master of ceremonies to introduce you. .. an early patron recalls. '1f he liked your looks and rhought it was a good idea he would. if he didn't he wouldn’t. ALL ABOARD Early dance goers relate that each Saturday evening, just as festivities were at their height, a ship, usually the Crawford Transportation Co. Tennessee, would glide alongside the dock and a deep voice would boom out. "Last boat for Chicago. " "The young Chicago swains would head for rhe door ways. some leaping over the Pavilion banister to make the boat, leaving their dance partners in mid two- step. " After the admission charge went into effect, young men strapped for cash, would gain admittance by climbing the supports at the south end of the building and crawling over the banister of the balcony on the lake side. The Pavilion management discouraged this mode of entrance by placing wire, later barbed wire. barricades near the end of the balcony. "Many a young man attended the dances after that with a tell-tale snag in the back of his white flannel pants, " recalls 'One who tried it. In 1910 to attract the "just watching" crowd. now that they had to pay admission anyway. a series of specialists were engaged to sing each evening. accom- panied by the 10-piece Benson orchestra under the direction of Arthur Friedman. On Sunday there was no dancing and selected specialists appeared with the orchestra in a concert. "The Sunday concerts are worthy of more than a passing mention for in them the orchestra shows its real skill. The program last Sunday was especially good. Mr. Arthur Friedman's violin solo called forth hearty applause which was well deserved. " In 1912 Fredrick Limouze was still the manager but was put out of action early in the year when he received "severe injuries" from a fall from a ladder at the Pavilion. During his recovery he apparently spent his spare time manufacturing elaborate accounts of the activi- ties of the Pavilion for the local paper. "One of the largest and most appreciative crowds of the season attended the confetti party and dance at the Big Pavilion last Wednesday night. Manager Limouze in his announcement made it emphatic to the ladies that their stronger adversaries were no more skilled in winning confetti battles than they. At 9:30 the opposing armies of the sham battle assumed their respective fields. The men arrayed themselves among the east field and the women among the west field of the huge dancing floor. At the sound of a whistle the battle royal began. From the viewpoint of the onlookers who were capable of being unprejudiced umpires, the ladies won, men retreated in all directions like a defeated army in rout to escape the terrific onslaught of paper bullets hurled by the fair sex. MOVIES ARRIVE In 1912 the first motion pictures came to Sauga- tuck. shown at the Airdome. on Water Street north of the Pavilion. The opening show included "scenes of Italy. also of the wild tribes in Borneo and others ac- companied by music. " The following year a number of local entrepreneurs tried their hand at the motion picture business, including the management of the Big Pavilion, which fitted up a theatre to the rear of the dance hall. For a while the structure, in common with three others in town, was open air. When it rained the film was stopped and customers ran for cover. The week the Pavilion movie theatre opened the newspaper listed the theatres: "The Big Pavilion is the latest motion picture show house and shows are given there part of the week. Mr. Dale thought four would be too many and has closed down. Mr. H. Snider who sang for him, now sings at the Airdome... The Rink Theatre still continues at 5 cents and gives three reel shows nightly with some special features. " The following year the theatre to the rear of the dance floor was enlarged, though it was still referred to as an "air dome . " In 1913 Fredrick Limouze left the organization as manager and H. H. Engle came up from South Haven to assume charge. Special parties continued three times a week. 1914 featured Farm and Barnyard party. First prize for the best farm costume was a pair of pigs, second prize a large goose. Turkeys were also given. The Pavilion was used for community special occasions. Shortly after it opened in 1909 the annual picnic of the Ottawa County Medical Society was held there with the dinner served by the ladies of the Methodist Church. In 1916 the pupils of Mrs. Minnie Unger Flint gave a piano recital. The season of 1916 saw the ani val of the Barbino Orchestra from Chicago. one of the longest and best remembered attractions in the ballroom. In 1916 its members were Morris Sherman, violinist; Antonio Salemme. solo cornetist: Harry Brown, drummer: William Russo, solo saxophone; Oscar Barbino, banjo; Edward Walsh, solo trombone; Daniel Lacy, piano: and Frank Barbino. harpist. Haven to assume charge. The interior showing the large ballroom shortly after the building’s grand opening in 1909.the two men dressed in white on the dance floor are probably Fredrick Limouze and Elmer Weed, masters of ceremonies.(Caption under picture) DANCING LESSONS Also in residence was Prof. R. G. Huntinghouse who offered dancing lessons for adults and children, and occasionally had his more proficient pupils take part in special shows in the ballroom. The season of 1917 was made noteworthy by a fire marshal's nightmare. As the newspaper relates it: "The perfect end of a perfect day" said a voice from the Stygian blackness when the electric lights ceased to function shortly before 11 o'clock last night. The confetti party of the Big Pavilion was in full swing, and the revelers were not to be balked by such a trifle as a failure of the light supply. Candles were procured and the merrymaking continued. " With the coming of World War I, the Barbino Orchestra was reduced to seven pieces and Frank Barbino, the famous harp player with the orchestra, enlisted in the 29th company of Coast Artillery stationed in California. One of his officers reported to the Saugatuck newspaper that Barbino was" not only a famous mu.. sician. but he is a first class soldier. The movie theatre was managed and booked by L E. Dunham of the Star Theatre in Allegan; the great war drama. "Over There". was scheduled for showing on the Fourth of July. In 1918 the entire building was repainted and re- decorated and the all-red structure was changed with the addition of white trim outlining the towers, winoows and doorways. The next year two Simplex motor driven moving picture machines replaced the old projector and "insured a steady continuous picture, obviating all delays in changing reels. " The major production for the theatre was a showing of "A Modern Venus" with a ballet of dancing girls and vocal soloists brought in from the Chicago Grand Opera to supplement the screen produc- tion. In 1919 the Pavilion management attempted to stretch the season by installing a new heating plant, enclosing the movie theatre, and offering such special features as the Kilties Band in the ballroom featuring J. Coates Lockhart, noted Scottish tenor. Wee Jamie Clark, champion bagpiper and dancer. William Smart, prize champion dancer and Master Duffen. jazz xylo- phone wizard. The experiment apparently was not an unqualified success. When the Pavilion finally closed in December the local newspaper commented: "Saugauck has long wanted winter movie shows. This winter the Big Pavilion was fitted up to meet this demand and high class attractions have been shown. But the village patronage has been disappointing and as the management insists on maintaining the high grade of its offerings the venture has not proved very profitable. If Saugatuck people want movies in the winter they will have to manifest it by their patronage.” WINTER HARBOR Many years between 1913 and 1924 the Big Pavilion served as winter headquarters for the Great Lakes passenger ships, the South American and the North American. They would come into the harbor in late fan and tie up behind the Pavilion for the winter layover. The North American (left) and the South America tied up near the Pavilion settled for the inter. (Caption under picture) Furniture and gear were stored inside the huge empty dance floor of the Pavilion. The arrangement was instigated by the Village Council which paid the Weed also kept a sharp eye on the length of the storage fees as a means of producing winter and early spring employment. In 1923, following a devastating fire at the Ottawa Hotel in Macatawa harbor. fire insurance companies began taking a dim view of ships which docked near large wooden structures and, unable to find more acceptable docking on the Kalamazoo, the boats left the spring of 1924 for the last time and took up new winter dockage in Hollage at the foot of 16th street in Lake Macatawa. " By 1912 Deac Weed had come over from Douglas to firmly take charge of things at the Pavilion. Impeccaably dressed himself, he would patrol the ballroom making sure others were also properly dressed and behaving in a dignified manner. "When Deac was around you not only had to have on suitcoat to get on the dance floor, " an early customer remembers, "no matter how hot it was outside it had to be buttoned.” The only exception to the rule were special "Shirtwaist" dances. occasionally given during the summer months, when men were permitted to attend without jackets. "They usually wore the fanciest shirts they owned,” observed a participant in many shirtwaist dances. Weed also kept a sharp eye on the length of the dances. If things were slow he might let each dance go for five minutes, but when things were busy three minutes was the limit and he sat p behind the bandstand with his stop watch to make sure the orchestra leader did it right. “When he got the signal,” an old drummer remembers, “the band leader had just a few seconds to end the song as gracefully as he could. Then the floor cleared and tickets collected for the next dance.: ”If you weren’t fast enough it was all over,” a customer remembers. “Sometimes they played three quarters of a chorus and that was it.” Weed’s influence entended to the movie theatre. In 1920 the local newspaper wrote: “Manager Weed wishes to assure patrons of the Big Pavilion that all pistures to be shown there this year will be free from any vulgar features or anything to which exception could be taken. He has earnestly impressed upon the booking concerns that his clientele censored all films so far booked. The movie thetre opened in March and ran weekends until the season began, with each program includ- ing a six-reel feature, Pathe Weekly, Literary Digest Topics and a Lloyd comedy. "Owing to the advance in price of pictures" the management wrote in an ad, "we are compelled to increase our price from 17 to 22 cents. ELECTION CENTRAL In 1920 the theatre was put to special use election night with the addition of a cable telegraph which furnished election news "direct to the Big Pavilion." "Come and find out who our next president and governor will be... [truncated due to length]

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